Kumasi and Mole National Park

We went to Kumasi and Mole National Park during the first weekend of July, it was amazing! When we got to Kumasi we went to the Manhyla Palace Museum. The museum is actually the former home to many of the past Asante kings. We were about to see their offices and many artifacts of former kings. Every 42 days is the Adea festival where the Asante King goes out into town and pledges alligence to the people. To our surprise we were able to witness this great occasion. Many of the people were dressed in black robes and blew large horns to show their respect. Music and dancing took place all around the palace.

 After that we went to one of the many markets in Kumasi where I was able to buy some beautiful, yet very affordable, local art. The next day we went to Kintampo Falls. The day we went, July 1^st, is Republic Day so there were tons of people enjoying their day off. Typical of any Ghanaian celebration, or typical day for that matter, there was live music and lots of dancing. Dancing is a huge part of Ghanaian culture; one man said that Ghanaians are so good at dancing because when being held on the backs of their mothers as babies they fall asleep listening to the rhythm of her heart beat and therefore the rhythm and beat of music is forever a part of them. 

Kintampo Falls

After Kintampo, we traveled further up north to Mole National Park. The drive itself was long and bumpy but definitely worth it! The next morning we went on a walking safari through the park. It was amazing; I felt so in touch with nature, it was very calming. During our safari we saw many different animals including baboons, monkeys, waterbucks, warthogs, antelopes and elephants. It was incredible getting so close to the animals without having a fence between us. Towards the end of the safari we hiked up a big mountain with an amazing view of the park. Sitting on a rock taking in the view was one of my favorite parts of the whole trip. 

Elephant at Mole

Mole National Park

From there we went to Larabanga village, which is home to one of West Africa’s oldest mosques. After learning about the history of the mosque and the town we walked around the village with some friendly residents. I love how anywhere you go in Ghana you find genuinely good people who just want to share a piece of themselves with you.  

Mosque in Larabanga

In the afternoon we were able to go on a driving safari and got to sit on top of the SUV. It allowed for a new perspective of the land and was really a lot of fun! The following day we went to Kejitia Market, which is the largest open market in West Africa. There I was able to buy cloth, which I will have made into clothes by a local seamstress. After that we went to some famous Asanti craft villages – Ahwiaa, the wood carvers village, Ntonso, home of the Adinka, and Bonwire, the Kente weaving village. It was really neat seeing how African crafts are made and being able to purchase good directly from the artisans. 

Kejitia Market, Kumasi

Kente Weaver in Bonwire

LOVE,
Lindsay

Its Academic!

Being a student here is pretty incredible; they really respect educated people and really value education. All of the young people I have met who are not in school tell me how lucky I am to be getting an education and how they wish they could go to school as well, it really makes me realized how powerful education is. For me going to college was always assumed, but here getting a college education is an opportunity only some receive. I would say that I have always been a good student but it wasn’t until now that I realized how much I have taken my education for granted. I really do feel blessed.

My courses here have been very interesting. In my Social Service Delivery Systems class we have been discussing the effectiveness of social services in Ghana and what could be done to make them more attainable and affordable.

Last week we went to La General Hospital where we were able to interview a doctor and few nurses. They told us about their daily struggles such as the lack of doctors, (they only have ten) and the lack of equipment such as monitors etc. The doctor also told us that funding was a major issue, which was apparent from the moment we arrived. The hospital was dingy and old with many obvious structural repairs and improvements needed. When the doctor was talking to us I got the impression that she, and all of the employees were trying so hard but still coming up short.

In Ghana you can get National Healthcare for 24 cedi a year or 1 cedi if you are a government employee. Even though that is relatively inexpensive, for someone only making 7cedi a week that is a huge amount of money to spend at one time. So many of the people living in poverty don’t end up purchasing the healthcare because they can’t afford it and because they feel that it is not that important. However, when someone with out insurance needs treatment they will not be refused. The trip to the hospital was almost surreal in that I felt like I was walking through the scene of a movie. Everything from the amount of people and the nurses’ outfits to the general upkeep of the facilities made me do a lot of reflecting on the healthcare system in Ghana and in other developing countries.

We also went to the Railway Market in Accra and interviewed several Kayayoo Girls. Kayayoo’s are young girl that come for the Northern, Eastern and Western regions of Ghana to work in Accra. They all work in large markets where they are paid to carry an individuals goods while they shop, basically like a human shopping cart. They carry the loads in large metal bowls on their head. They all come to Accra with the goal of saving money for school or their families and eventually return back to their villages. However, many times they are unable to save any money at all because they need to pay for a place to sleep and food to eat. But some can’t even afford that so they are forced to sleep outside in the markets when they close down. They usually make about 7 cedis a week, but it varies quite a bit because there are a large number of people who rip them off and take advantage of them. For example, a woman may agree to pay the girl one cedi for the load but will end up only giving her 10peswas. Also, sexual harassment and abuse are very prevalent. Men will come to them promising them money, clothes, cell phones, etc in exchange for sex, if the girl refuses she will end up being beaten. With very little money and no skills the girls are forced to remain Kayayoo’s until they eventually save enough money to get back to their villages. Sadly, that time doesn’t always come.

A fellow classmate talking to some of the girls at Railway Market

We went to these girls to hear their stories because they are the victims of inadequate social services. In Ghana education is free only until middle school, so many adolescents are forced to word odd jobs until they earn enough money to go. Also, they do not have any sort of healthcare and the 24cedi for the National Healthcare is much to expensive for them. Vulnerable people fall short in many of Ghana’s social services due to a lack of effective systems. 

We also went to an organization called WAAF, West African AIDS Foundation. WAAF was actually quite an impressive organization. Their goal is to educate individuals and communities about communicable diseases, namely HIV/AIDS, sexually transmitted infections and tuberculosis. They do this by going into the communities to do testing and hand out information about their clinic. Their mission is to create relationships with clients in supportive manner. Building relationships is the key to WAAF’s success. Their counseling and support allows individuals to feel respected and safe. 90% of WAAF’s clients are HIV positive so building long term relationships is essential for them to continue treatment and counseling. In a culture deeply routed in traditional beliefs continuing treatment can be hard. Many times clients will opt for herbalist and “witch doctors.” Sadly the staff of WAAF have seen many clients lose the battle with HIV/AIDS because of these strong beliefs.

Classmates and I with the staff of WAAF

In my People and Cultures of Africa class we have been studying ancient African Empires and their customs, beliefs and traditions. I have found this to be a very interesting class because it is honestly the first time I have learned about African empires other then that of Egypt.  Today we went to the Eastern region in Ghana to a village called Larteh. There we witnessed traditional dances and praises to one of their great ancestors. They have priests and priestesses who are spiritually connected to her and who perform sacrifices to her on an individual’s behalf. It is so interesting to learn about these traditions and rituals and then actually be able to see them being practiced today. Even in everyday life you can see ancient traditions carried out in a modern day form.

Drummer at Larteh

I have learned so much in these past four weeks; I cannot wait to share all of my stories when I return! 

Love, 

Lindsay